A difficult start with problems finding gear placing and non slimy foot holds slowed progress a little, but with gear placed at mid height, Davie finished the climb with ease. Jack retrieved the gear on his way up in Spiderman fashion then Rich followed taking the neighbouring climb Monument Chimney Crack.
Next we moved to the Promenade, a 16m Diff. Davie led this one with ease with Jack seconding again to collect the gear.
With Davie secured at the top, Rich had a look at other routes that could be managed using the same line and found The Chain, a 12m S 4a. A difficult start that followed the same upper portion of The Promenade. Rich and Jack had a go while Davie kept them safe on belay from above.
After a spot of lunch we moved over to another green and slimy Diff that Davie seem eager to have a crack at.
After a spot of lunch we moved over to another green and slimy Diff that Davie seem eager to have a crack at.
Admiral's Progress, a 12m Diff that was a nightmare to get off the ground. No shortage of holds, but all green and nowhere to place gear. Davie led this one and was contemplating continuing the route without any gear after reaching half height with nothing placed. A thread anchor was found and he continued to Jack and Rich’s relief with at least something to stop him falling on top of us if he did slip.
Again Jack followed on gear retrieval duties and Rich followed with a pleasant climb. By now it was late afternoon and a final climb was selected, Trafalgar Crack, a 14m VDiff 4a.
Again Jack followed on gear retrieval duties and Rich followed with a pleasant climb. By now it was late afternoon and a final climb was selected, Trafalgar Crack, a 14m VDiff 4a.
At this point it was apparent that Davie was back up to speed as he raced up the climb placing a single piece of gear at 4m before climbing the rest unprotected!
Jack followed to rescue the lonely cam then Rich followed up a variant of the route Barnacle Bulge, a 14m HS 4c.
With everyone tired it seemed the right time to head home, but Bat and his daughter turned up and suggested Rich get Topsail done while the weather was nice. Rich had attempted the lead last year but had failed at the crux. This time he’d have confidence in his belay and motivation from the five spectators (Jack, Bat, Angela and her two dogs). Rich got his rack on and set off. As he was trying to place his first piece of gear, the large flake he was hanging onto parted company with the rest of the crag; luckily he had his ample leg jammed into a crack. As he reached the roof and the crux he placed a couple of bits of gear and had a good old fumble for the big jug everyone had told him was there. After several attempts, he grabbed it and from there the climb was easy.
With everyone tired it seemed the right time to head home, but Bat and his daughter turned up and suggested Rich get Topsail done while the weather was nice. Rich had attempted the lead last year but had failed at the crux. This time he’d have confidence in his belay and motivation from the five spectators (Jack, Bat, Angela and her two dogs). Rich got his rack on and set off. As he was trying to place his first piece of gear, the large flake he was hanging onto parted company with the rest of the crag; luckily he had his ample leg jammed into a crack. As he reached the roof and the crux he placed a couple of bits of gear and had a good old fumble for the big jug everyone had told him was there. After several attempts, he grabbed it and from there the climb was easy.
Bat followed up to retrieve the gear and the day was done!
A great venue, excellent climbing, perfect weather, fantastic company… perfect!
A great venue, excellent climbing, perfect weather, fantastic company… perfect!
