Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr

The weather was perfect for a day in the hills; clear blue skies, not a hint of wind and a little snow from 650m to add a little interest to the walk.

Rich S and Kev set off from the car park for the north ridge of Tryfan; an easy, if a little exposed, grade 1 scramble. Route finding at first was easy as there is a good path, but the terrain soon turns vertical and easy walking turns into a lot of scrambling. The height gain is incredible, no gentle walk in on this route!

When we reached the snow, all traces of a path quickly disappeared so a direct approach to the ridge was taken. As we got within a couple of hundred metres of the summit we moved around to the left of the ridge and followed a gully to the summit as the rocks we were scrambling on had zero grip due to the levels of ice cover.

Just before the route had turned vertical we had past a young lad having a breather on the path. During the ascent he had stayed around 10 metres behind us, never letting us get out of sight but just far enough away so no conversation could take place. When we reached the summit we finally concertinaed and we asked if he could take our photo. As we chatted he admitted to us that this was his first winter climb and only his fourth ever mountain. He had been into a shop in Betws-y-coed, bought his ice axe and crampons, and decided to go for it. However, when he reached the first vertical step on the ridge scramble he was pleased someone had turned up so he could follow as it looked a little daunting! His initially plan was to descend the south ridge and head back to his car but when he found out our plan to go on to Glyder Fach and Fawr he asked if he could follow some more!

I have to say it was one of the noisiest walks I have been on and I think this was due to the good weather. We had two Hawk trainers doing laps through the valley at around 500m and a rescue helicopter came and dropped a signal flare on a ridge just above us for a little practice.

We decided to avoid the ridge scramble up to Glyder Fach and follow the snow line as the face had seen no sun and was very icy. The route we took was up a scree slope but was easy due to the snow cover.

Once on top we had a relatively easy walk to Glyder Fawr and with all three summits bagged it was time to descend via Devil’s Kitchen. The route down followed a steep snow covered slope with no rocks protruding, which meant only one thing to me… time for some ice axe arrests!! Not only do you get to practice an essential winter mountain skill, you also get down the hill in rapid time. When I suggested we go back up to have another go all I got were funny looks and mumbled obscenities. Looks like it’s just me that’s a big kid then!!

Once down to the tarn we had the opportunity to check out some long classic climbs at Idwal. A very gentle slope of a slab with a 200m VDiff climb called ‘Hope’. Once the weather improves we will be back to give that one a go!

The final leg of the route is back along the road to the car park where we had the pleasure of the Hawks racing down the valley again.

An excellent day out.

Rich S

Slipstone Revisited - 9th January 2009

We had such good fun at Slipstone this week, we decided to go back.

Davie, Rich S and Rachael all headed over to the crags again to try some lead climbing and to practice gear placement.

Weather was a little milder but the rock was still very cold from a week of near zero temperatures.

After an initial go at 'Overhanging Crack' (VDiff) and failing miserably on the initial bouldering type move, Davie moved over to have a shot at leading 'Mantelshelf Crack' (VDiff). Again, this needs arms like a gorilla to gain the second step and it proved just out of reach for the poor dispirited Davie.

However, having thrown and recovered his teddy bear, Davie swapped places with Rich to give him a try at it.

Although simean in his demeanour, Rich too lacked the arm length to gain sufficient purchase for the next steps.

This was getting depressing. We moved back around to tackle 'Overhanging Crack' with Davie belaying Rich on lead. The stubby legs of Rich proved to be tailor made for jamming into the large crack and having cracked this first move, he swiftly made progress to the top.

Top rope set up and Rich on belay, Rachael had a go and, after struggling like her old dad, managed to crack the initial problem to gain the easier line. She abseiled back down to take pictures of the frustrated 'silverback', warming up for a try at 'Roofed Corner' (Diff).

The route is straightforward with an awkward overhanging block at the top and it was swiftly negotiated - well, more swiftly than my earlier fiascos.

Rachael took the same route and then dropped back down for a traverse from this to the next door Overhanging Crack. Davie completed the same traverse from ground up and as the valley fog was coming in we decided to head for home.

Slipstone proved today that it is essentially a bouldering area with some specific climbs thrown in. Most of the difficulty ratings are obviously awarded on the basis of the initial moves requiired to get going.

The routes are bloody difficult and, in boots and cold rock, very tricky.

Unless, of course, you're an 18yr old, 5 ft 10 ex-ballerina or a short, squat, walking muscle who can peel bananas with his feet.

Maybe, just maybe, I'm too old for this s**t.

Slipstone is going to be a regular occurence as there are still plenty of routes to try out, so come along.

Davie

1st Verdes day of 2009 - Slipstone Crags, Masham, North Yorkshire. 6th January 2009

To break in the new year, Rich S, Rachael T and Davie headed over to Slipstone Crags for some climbing.

The weather was clear and sunny, which sounds great until you realise that the temperature at Davie's was -5 degrees and at 300m, near the crags, it was a little cooler in the breeze.

We tackled two routes starting with 'Staircase' - a 'Moderate' as the name would suggest. However, with the breeze being channeled up the gorge we were in, even if it had been a staircase, it was so cold that grip was iffy to say the least.

Rich lead climbed and tried to use up his entire rack in order to cut the weight carried and to give Davie something to do, removing it all on his ascent.

We moved across the crags to another route, this time a 'Difficult' called 'Heather Crack'. Slipstone is known as a bouldering area and some of the initial moves on the climbing routes are more akin to boulder problems.

Heather Crack is no different. Rachael struggled with some boot placement on the first two moves but soon got into the groove and made a hasty ascent despite being frozen. Davie, being longer in the leg, completed the intial moves a little quicker and progressed 'smoothly' to the end funnel - only to find his 54" inch wide frame being confronted with a 42" gap.

Giving birth must be just like this, except less painful.

A quick mantelshelf move and a bouncing 17 stone baby Dave was deposited beside a startled and bewildered Rich on the belay.

Slipstone is great for those wanting to get into climbing, with something for everyone. Today the weather was against us, but in the summer it will be excellent fun.

We even finished the day with a spot of caving...

Davie