My first lead was to be Prow Corner, a 12 metre VDiff. It was chosen as a first because it is not too challenging but has loads of cracks to practice placing protection. With just about every piece of gear from my rack placed in every gap, crack or hole (to gain experience rather than protect the route) I made it to the top and set up my belay. Kev would now second the route and inspect each piece of protection and give me feedback on its effectiveness. Fortunately, all was well and sufficient for Kev to declare it was time for a more challenging route!
We moved to the upper tier to access the longer climbs and found the ‘Right Route’. Another VDiff but this time a 24 metre split into two pitches. I led the first pitch of around 15 metres to a lofty belay stance with fabulous view over Tittesworth Reservoir. When I was anchored in, Kev started to climb, evaluating my gear placement on route. Once along side me, another inspection of my belay then he led the second pitch of 9 metres to the top. Second route done and still enough daylight to attempt another route.
The next route was just a little further up and was called Maud’s Garden. A 21 metre, VDiff, multi pitch. I led the first pitch again which was quite easy to climb but, due to the lack of any kind of crack or gap, I found I had to climb around 5 metres un-protected. Once I had my first lump of hardware in the wall I relaxed and found the rest of the climb a pleasure. The large ledge at 12 metres provides the belay stance and allowed me to bring Kev up who continued through to lead the second pitch.
By the time we got back to the start of the climb the light was rapidly fading but Kev was already planning his diary so we could come back and move up a grade or two. There is a classic route at the Roaches called Valkyrie (38 metre, VS 4a, 4c) that he has wanted to lead for sometime. Just need a little more practice…
We moved to the upper tier to access the longer climbs and found the ‘Right Route’. Another VDiff but this time a 24 metre split into two pitches. I led the first pitch of around 15 metres to a lofty belay stance with fabulous view over Tittesworth Reservoir. When I was anchored in, Kev started to climb, evaluating my gear placement on route. Once along side me, another inspection of my belay then he led the second pitch of 9 metres to the top. Second route done and still enough daylight to attempt another route.
The next route was just a little further up and was called Maud’s Garden. A 21 metre, VDiff, multi pitch. I led the first pitch again which was quite easy to climb but, due to the lack of any kind of crack or gap, I found I had to climb around 5 metres un-protected. Once I had my first lump of hardware in the wall I relaxed and found the rest of the climb a pleasure. The large ledge at 12 metres provides the belay stance and allowed me to bring Kev up who continued through to lead the second pitch.
By the time we got back to the start of the climb the light was rapidly fading but Kev was already planning his diary so we could come back and move up a grade or two. There is a classic route at the Roaches called Valkyrie (38 metre, VS 4a, 4c) that he has wanted to lead for sometime. Just need a little more practice…
Rich S
1 comment:
Awesome Verdes night mate! A huge 'well done' on your first outdoor lead - and multi pitch too!
Fantastic Rich! Well done you bar steward... now I need to raise my game a little ;)
Davie
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